Carnevale in Venice

As I mentioned earlier, Carnival in Venice is very different from what we are accustomed to in New Orleans. Very different.

First, its origins. Carnival here, like everywhere else, goes back to at least the Middle Ages as the farewell to flesh leading up to the 40 days of Lent. But Carnival in Venice died out more than 100 years ago and was resurrected (pardon the pun) only in 1979 as–you guessed it–a way to attracts tourists during the low season.

Just a few of the booths near San Marco hawking masks and souvenirs to the tourists.
Just a few of the booths near San Marco hawking masks and souvenirs to the tourists.

And attract tourists it does, literally by the millions. Venice’s narrow streets and passages are jammed with tourists sporting cheap masks and varying levels of costumes. Hundreds of more elaborately costumed characters wander the major areas like San Marco, posing for photos, offering directions and generally acting as Venetian tourism ambassadors. They are pros.

A couple of roving Carnival ambassadors. You can tell which ones are professionals by their makeup.
A couple of roving Carnival ambassadors. You can tell which ones are professionals by their makeup.

The major celebration is set up in San Marco, where a huge temporary wooden stage is erected, flanked by rows of booths demonstrating Venetian crafts such as glass blowing, gondola construction and the like. Truth is, Venice doesn’t have much industry at all beyond tourism, and the city’s population dwindles each year.

The main stage is backed by a huge video screen that broadcasts the daily costume contests, which are the highlight of official Carnival activities. No parades, of course–where would they go? The costume contests are staged daily, with the winners moving toward the finals on Mardi Gras.

The main stage is barricaded off in the mornings until the craft booths open.
The main stage is barricaded off in the mornings until the craft booths open.

Venice’s famed masked balls are all private, profit-making affairs, generally held at major hotels. Prices seem to be multi-tiered, with the most expensive tickets for the full dining experience, followed by dancing to a DJ. Deacon John could clean up in this town.

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